Rome – city of many faces
Delicious food at Osteria Sostegno
Yes, we’re back! Our start of our weekend in Rome was a little weird. Originally we were supposed to go Friday morning but due to Tom’s grandpa’s funeral we had to rearrange flights and everything to leave later on Fridaynight. So after the funeral we changed clothes at a gasstation and drove on to the airport. I was happy that we managed to do that as it would be our first weekend away in a pretty long time. So we arrived in Rome late at night and were greeted by Ivan at the apartment we rented through airbnb in Trastevere. Loooved the apartment even though it is in a somewhat noisy area but it didn’t stop me from sleeping like a baby plus stepping out of our door we were smack in the middle of the action. I can highly recommend you stay here. Quite affordable too!
Churches, churches and more churches
Since it was our first time we Rome we wanted to see all the sights such as the Vatican, Colosseum, Piazza this and that, the fountains and ofcourse the markets. But we quickly found that three full days in Rome is really not enough. O well, it gives us a good reason to come back soon right? We did see most of the main sights but because we walked everything, at some point you just want to sit and have a good glass of wine and some antipasti to go along with it. And let’s face it; that’s part of Rome life too right?
We had some really good food experiences but also two not so good. Our first was really our own fault as we were tired, the restaurant we wanted to go to was closed for renovation and the next one would be half an hour to walk. Around the Vatican the sheer amount of touristy restaurants is huge, so we ended up in one of those Ill Pozzetto. Mediocre food, mediocre wine and well, best not to talk about that one any longer. Our second less then perfect experience was at Glass in Trastevere which has a Michelin star apparently.
Modern interior of Glass
We went there expecting something as the restaurant looks very posh and beautiful. Modern and stylish. We were fairly early for Italian standards as we figured we might be able to get a table without reservation if we arrived on time. And we did. The waitresses were lovely so it wasn’t that, but we didn’t think the food was up to standard. It lacked seasoning in most cases and the speed in which we were served was short of ridiculous. I suspect that they wanted us out to have room for possible reservations later, which is fine, but in that case it would have been polite to let us know upfront. We could then have made the decision to either stay or look elsewhere. As it was we had a 6 course diner in a little over an hour! We had chosen a wine arrangement but clearly the sommelier was either new or had no idea what he was doing. The wines were chosen badly for the dishes, especially the wine with the lamb was really not well chosen.
Starter lacked seasoning
At one point we had a whole array of wineglasses half empty on our table simply because they kept turning out the dishes at top speed and we had no time to finish our wines and there was the next already. The highlight of the meal was the dessert which was delicious but other then that it was not an experience we will be repeating. I have seen many good reviews about the same restaurant so either the chef was having a bad day or we just came at the wrong time, but whatever the case I was certainly not impressed.
How different it was when we went to the tiny Osteria Sostegno the next day. Again we were lucky to get a table as the place was packed with Italians having their Sunday lunch together. The atmosphere was great, lovely people and fantastic food. The first picture of this post was my starter and totally delicious crostini. I had a Melanzane di Parmiggiano next and Tom had a great pasta.
Osteria Sostegno
This tiny restaurant is tucked away in a little sidestreet so if you don’t know about it you will never pass it by accident. Worth finding if you’re in the area of the Pantheon. But then again, there are so many fabulous little finds in Rome that it is hard to pick due to the sheer volume of things to see and do.
I still have to process all the pictures although they have a fairly high level of lots of buildings.. Lol… I don’t normally shoot a lot of buildings but I could hardly avoid it in Rome! Next time we will be paying more attention to other things too but three days in Rome is really nothing. You need much more time to explore the city in depth. So I can only say; till next time!
Trastevere by night
Appetizer
Asian
Bread
Breakfast
Desserts & other sweets
Healthy
Everytime one goes to Rome there is something left to be seen at the end and the phrase “till next time” immediately comes to mind. I love the trastevere neighborhood. I wish I could go more often to enjoy not only the city but also food and ¡¡Ice creams and coffee¡¡
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We will meet you there! Sounds like you enjoyed the weekend and our condolences to Tom with the loss of his grandpa xx
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Last year we hired a guide to take us to Villa D’Este and then over to Hadrian’s little place (lol) and later our guide took us to a wonderful restaurant in Tivoli and “Mama” came out after our meal to have her photo taken with us and share a glass of wine. We spoke no Italian and she spoke no English. It was great fun and we left with a gift of her wonderful olive oil that she buys for her restaurant from a friend of hers. I love Rome too. I’m sorry two of your meals weren’t up to scratch. Shame.
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Simone, we too loooooved Osteria Sostegno – everything just wonderful – most of all we like the fact that this place is mostly frequented by ROMANS!!!
Back there again next year. But please, can you send to my email details of the apartment you stayed in at Trastevere. Thank you so much. Ciao Carina
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It looks like you had a wonderful time in Rome. Lovely clicks (especially the last one).
My condolences to Tom. So sorry to hear about his loss.
Cheers,
Rosa
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Hi Simone,
I’m from Rome. Nice to read about your experience. Sometimes in restaurants they think that if your”re not Italian you don’t know anything about food or wine or goodliving tout court. Quite unpolish end provincial thinking… But at the end you could find a good place, so I hope you ‘ll come again.
Cheers,
Giovanna
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Sorry for your loss. The trip away will have done you well. It sounds like you had an amazing time. I’ve never been to Rome!
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I love your last shot! I had four full days in Rome last month but it wasn’t enough time either, though I think an entire lifetime would be necessary to see everything! I’m still editing my photos as well – the city just begs to be photographed.
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It looks that you had fun, eating & travelling around Rome! Such a lovely post too!
I love the picture of the seagull & the last picture the most: so beautiful too!
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looks like you had a wonderful time!
xo Cassy
http://theworkette.blogspot.com/
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Tell me about it! 4 days of non stop walking around in Rome and I still feel I left out so many things to see. I am still editing the pics
Wish we could meet!
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There just always seem to be a reason to go back to Rome! Trastevere is great. Close enough to everything but just that bit removed from the tourist humdrum. Love your last photo of Trastevere by night. Now I need to go back (again)!
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aaah, Roma. I spent my first day in the city not “getting it”, being stressed out by scooters that seemed determined to run me down, and depressed by the mass of people But something clicked on the second day and by the fourth and final day of our visit, I was besotted. Truly one of my favourite cities and one I returned to last summer for a girls’ weekend which was FANTSTIC (there is too much shopping potential in Rome to really want a husband there hahaha!). Particularly loved the protected cat habitats among the Roman ruins
Do agree though – it is an easy city in which to find crap touristy food – I did a LOT of research before we went and it truly did pay off. The Jewish quarter is packed with interesting and not-too-touristy restaurants too.
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Looks like you had an amazing time in Rome. I’ve never been, but a visit to Rome is high on my to do list. I just love that last photo, it looks like a shot from an old movie.
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