Junglefrog Cooking » Howto’s

Spiced nutty apple-pear cake

Simone (junglefrog) — Sun, 05 Feb 2012 08:00:51 +0000

Pretty bundt cake

I made this pretty moist and delicious bundt cake this afternoon. It came out of the oven around 4.30 pm, then had to cool and by the time I wanted to take a photo there was no light left whatsoever. That meant having to wait either until the next day or find an alternative solution. I still had this one daylight lamp that I took out of the studio at some point, used once, didn’t like it and tossed it in a corner to get dusty. Enough with the lazy and comfortable daylight! Time to get cracking on some serious stuff..

I’ve received many a question from people desperate to find out how to work with lighting in the night or for those of us living in the Northern Hemisphere, in the wintertime when light fades after 3 pm. I’ve written something about it before which you find here but thought I could do a little more research myself so why not share? As I said; I never use this lamp as it’s just not the same but in case of emergency, you would have to do with what you got right? So for today I dusted of my daylight lamp, took it into our kitchen and started moving it around.

Position of the lamp

As you can see I positioned the light to come from the right and back and from above a little bit. The lamp has 5 separate bulbs I can turn off individually, so I turned three of and left two burning as it was far too bright, causing burnout and heavy shadows. With a little less light it started to look a little better. I had only one light, so you can see that there is quite a bit of shadow in front of the cake. In order to fill that up a bit I used a silver reflector (you can also use foamboard, aluminiumfoil or something similar) to bounce a bit of light back to the front of the cake. In the two photos below you can see the difference with or without the reflector.

With or without reflector

You can tell that there is a big difference here. You can still tell that these are shot with artificial light but the result is acceptable and you can actually use this. Now what is most important I find when working with lights is the direction of the light. That is also true for daylight but that can be a bit more forgiving. I’ve taken two shots where I changed the position of the lamp and see what happens.

Ok first of all; what I like, might be something else from what you like, so it’s in the end all personal preference but to me the photo on the right is boring and lacks something. I turned the light more towards the table coming more from straight above almost (not quite) which made the light a bit flatter and shadows less pronounced.

I will be doing more tests with other lights that anyone would have in their home. Just to see what the issues are and how to possible solve those (or not). These lights are the easy ones since they are daylight balanced and need limited tweaking when it comes to color. In general for shooting at night, it is extremely helpful to use raw instead of jpeg. It gives you more control over the white balance so you can correct it later where needed. For now I will leave you with this delicious bundt cake!

Apple pear and nut bundt cake

Print recipe

Serves	8-12
Prep time	15 minutes
Cook time	1 hour
Total time	1 hour, 15 minutes
Allergy	Egg, Peanuts, Tree Nuts
Meal type	Dessert
Misc	Pre-preparable
Website	Epicurious

Ingredients

1/2 cup dried cranberries
2 cups all purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon nutmeg (freshly grated)
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1 cup light brown sugar (packed)
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup unsalted butter (2 sticks, softened)
3 eggs (large ones)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 pears (peeled, cored and cut into small pieces)
2 apple, Golden Delicious (peeled, cored and cut into small pieces)
1 cup Mixed nuts (coarsely chopped)
1/2 teaspoon salt

Directions


In a small bowl put the cranberries with a bit of warm water and let them soak for at least an hour. Drain, discarding the water and set aside. Position rack in the middle of an oven and preheat the oven to 180 C. Lightly butter the bundt tin, then dust with flour, knocking out the excess.

In a large mixing bow or bowl of electric mixer, sift together flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and salt. Add brown and granulated sugars, butter, eggs and vanilla. Using electric mixer, beat on high speed, scraping down sides of bowl with rubber spatula as needed, until batter is pale and smooth, about 3 minutes for handheld mixer and 2 minutes for standmixer. Stir in apples, pears, nuts and cranberries. Spoon into prepared pan and smooth the top.

Bake until a wooden pick or skewer comes out clean when inserted into the center of the cake. About 1 hour. Cool cake in pan on a rack for 10 minutes, then invert and unmold onto rack and cool completely. Cake can be made up to three days in advance and stored at room temperature wrapped tightly in plastic wrapp

How to… shoot a baby

Simone (junglefrog) — Sun, 02 Oct 2011 08:00:16 +0000

The other day I was tweeting along happily and mentioned that I was going to be doing a babyshoot later that day. Mona, from the fabulous WiseWords, reacted if I could maybe write something about shooting a baby on my blog… I asked the parents for permission to use some of the photos and they obviously said yes, so here we are! It’s not exactly food, but then this blog IS after all about food, photography and travel, so I figured babies would fall under the right category..

I should have probably called this post ‘how to photograph a baby’ but hey, you know what I mean when I say shoot, right?

Ok, basics first; a baby needs a couple of things in life and they are simple but essential. Take any of those away and you’re likely to get horrible results. The basics are:

Mom and/or dad
Something soft and cuddly to lie on
Food when hungry
Warmth to feel comfy
Preferably not too much distraction, other then mom or dad
Toys and squeeky things

If you have all of the above then you’re good to go. In general – as I am sure I do not need to tell you if you’re a mother or father – every kid is different and that is true just as much for babies as it is for bigger children. So your first job is to make sure you have an idea of your options. Some babies are very hard to work with and will cry as soon as they are left alone. Other babies, as the one pictured here, are just all happy and smiles and really easy to work with. Now I usually work in the studio with babies which is a plus in terms of light but it can also be a minus in terms of setting and comfort for the baby. So if you can shoot at someones home, it will be a little easier for the baby to relax.

Regardless of where you shoot, you need to first know how old the baby is. Can they sit on their own (usually when they are older then 7 months), can they hold up their heads or are they still too tiny. The smallest baby I ever photographed was just barely two weeks old.

Barely two weeks old

Your options are a bit limited when they are this small. I love closeup shots of wrinkly hands and feet or intimate shots with the mom and dad holding the little one close. It’s perfectly fine if they are sleeping as that just ads to the soft feel. If you want to go in close, make sure you use a macro lens preferably as that will blur out any little details in the room you do not want to see and will allow you to go in close to zoom in on tiny fingernails or little wrinkly feet.

Don’t feel the need to show everything of the baby or even everything of the face. I love closeups of those tiny faces where the only thing you see is an eye or half a face. In terms of light; daylight is perfect as that has a soft quality to it, but will also mean that you have to keep control over your shutterspeed to prevent camera shake. You can use a tripod but that is not always very handy when working with little kids. If the baby is sleeping then a tripod is fine, but if they’re awake; you’re not going to be able to keep up with the movements.

That is another thing with little babies; if they are old enough to hold their head up by themselves it is still going to be wobbly. And really hard to get a good focus. You know those really cute shots where the baby is lying on something (soft and cuddly remember?) and they look up with their shaky little heads? Cute it is, but also hard to take a good photo. Patience is the key here and don’t get discouraged when you have 10 images that are blurry. In the end you need only one good shot and also worth to remember is that the parents won’t mind a little blurriness if the picture is really cute. I have this habit of checking every single photo at a 100% but with a 21 Mb camera it is unlikely to be ever used at that size, so no one will probably even notice a little blurriness. I’m not talking completely unsharp and unfocused here but just a little bit off because the baby moved it’s head. In fact the first photo here is not entirely sharp but I loved the happy face so kept it in.

You don't always need a smily face!

If you do use daylight then a reflector can come in handy too. Don’t use an in camera flash and I would be careful with using a regular flash if it cannot be used off camera (via cord or wireless). If you do have a separate flash with a swivelhead but no option to us it of the camera you can also bounce the flash via a reflector. Just position the swivelhead to point to a reflector and have the reflector point at the baby. You might get a better result that way. Be careful though that you do not scare the baby as bright light can be a problem.

Happy Mila

Once you sorted out your lighting situation it is time to entertain the baby. I usually have either mom or dad stand behind me and do funny things. Pull faces, make noises, whatever makes the child happy. I play peekaboo from behind my camera when necessary (focus, hold it, move your face away from the camera, shout peekabook and press the button) although that is double tricky with babies but whatever needs to be done!

Make sure that you are on eyelevel with the baby as that usually gives the nicest results. You can shoot from above or below for variation but in general eye-level works best with kids and animals.

When it comes to babies that can sit but not on their own; I usually ask the parents to sit on either site of the child and hold it around it’s waist to support it. That way I can shoot portraits closeup of the little one (such as the first picture) as if they are sitting. And when need be you can remove an arm later in photoshop. The photo above with the little bathcape was cute but mom was holding the baby so she was half in the frame, as you see the original below.

And then ultimately it all comes down to a lot of patience… Good luck! And if you have any other great tips you want to share, feel free to leave a comment!

Unedited photo

Foodphotography;shooting at night or in low light

Simone (junglefrog) — Thu, 21 Jan 2010 14:19:32 +0000

Taken with two small halogen lights

For today’s post I am gonna try and explain how you can solve some of the problems that occur when shooting in low light or at night. Especially at this time of year it seems to be impossible to shoot your dinner in daylight since, well, most people don’t eat their main meal during lunchtime right? And while certainly not impossible; shooting at nighttime does create some problems and most have to do with the fact that artificial light has a different color as natural daylight.

So in order to explain you how to shoot during the evening you have to know that each type of lamp, whether that be a regular bulb, halogen, fluorescent light etc. has it’s own special color temperature. Daylight itself can vary in color during the day; early in the morning the light is bluish, while later in the day it becomes more warm and yellowish. And again that varies in each season. The color of the light is generally referred to as degrees Kelvin. I won’t get all technical here but as a rule keep in mind that daylight is generally around 5000K (as in Kelvin). A flashlight is daylight balanced at 5500K, which is why when using flash, the colors in your photo tend to be correct. Colortemperature in photography is generally referred to as white balance.

But as we all know flash is just too harsh and unattractive in general. I forgot to take a photo with flash while doing the other shots so it looks slightly different than all the other photos but you’ll get the picture. Very unattractive!

Direct flash vs indirect flash (via the ceiling) on the right

Even with flash there is a huge difference between direct flash which is the left photo or indirect flash, which is the photo on the right. Here I bounced the light of the ceiling, but this is ofcourse only possible if you have an SLR with a separate flash with a swivelhead. There are trics if you don’t have that but that is maybe more for a separate topic. For now we will focus on regular lights you might have in your home.

I started this excercise of with taking a photo without any light. I did shoot all of these during daytime but I have curtains in the studio that make it virtually nighttime, so trust me when I say there was no daylight coming in. This will not work at night because if it is pitchblack you’ll be waiting forever until your photo is taken. In this case I had to wait 30 seconds for the exposure to finish (needless to say that you cannot do this without a tripod!)

Left original from camera, right corrected with greycard

As you can see the original on the left is very orange and has a red tint. I am guessing this is due to the fact that my curtains are some kind of beige so the little light that was coming in probably cast a weird color. I shoot in raw – always – and have used a

Grey card

greycard to correct the whitebalance afterwards. A greycard is nothing more then a card which you position in your scene and then take a photo in the same light conditions as your actual photo and let’s you adjust the while balance later in software.The reason for using a ‘greycard’ is that it represents an average neutral.

Keep in mind that you can only do this properly if you shoot in raw! (which I would strongly urge you to if you have an SLR and difficult light situations. If you don’t have an SLR you can try the manual whitebalance instead, which some, not all, compacts have. To use the custom white balance you take a photo in the same situation as your final shot of a white sheet of paper. You set your camera to custom white balance and it will ask for a reference point. You look up the photo of the white sheet that you took (make sure it shows nothing else but the white sheet) and select that. For all photos now taken in the same light situations your camera will remember that setting and adjust the whitebalance accordingly.

I have shot all photos here except the flashphotos with exactly the same setting on a tripod.

If you do own an SLR I would recommend you get familiair with shooting in raw. It’s not as complicated as you might think but it can save your photo in situations like this.

After taking these shots without any additional light I used small halogen lights. They were small tiny lights so if you want to use those diffusing the light might make the shadows less harsh but I actually liked the effect they gave so I kept them as it. I will first show you a photo of the setup and the lights that were used.

Lighting setup with two halogen lights and foamboard reflector

As you can see very simple. I used the mirror in front to decrease a little bit of the heavy shadow on the first mandarin.I started by using one light which is the first photo below, but liked it more with two lights

And this is the end result; first on the left the uncorrected version, then the corrected version and then the version with two lights.

From left to right; with one light uncorrected, with one light corrected and with two lights corrected

In case you were wondering; the tablecloth is light blue.

As you can see in the background on photo two; the light becomes in general much bluer when corrected (again I did this with a greycard) and because there is now a big difference between the light in the front and the light in the back I preferred the two light version where you cannot see the background behind it anymore. But the results are quite acceptable I think.

So then I went on to use a building light or construction light, not sure how you would call them in English but they are the kind of lights that are used in general on building sites. One of the (big) disadvantages with these lights is that they become scorching hot, so unsuitable to use if you have little kids running around. I wouldn’t go for these but they are cheap and they work too.

Again first a photo of the setup with one light; I ended up using two lights in the last photo of the series.

Building light or construction light

The photos I took are again from left to right; uncorrected, corrected and with two lights.

From left to right; no correction, corrected and with two lights

As you can see the light without correction was quite yellow and very easy to correct with the use of a greycard! Because I was in the studio I did not have any regular lightbulbs but essentially the technique would be exactly the same, wether you use fluorescent or whatever lightsource. Just make sure you do not use different kinds of lightsource as that will make it almost impossible to correct for the right colortemperature. So always use sure that you use two of the same light sources if you use two. For reflective material I used cheap foamboard to lift the shadows a tiny bit. You can always also use little mirrors if you want to light up certain parts of your image or give something a little shimmer.

Last is a daylight balanced light which are not that expensive to buy if you want to.. It makes it easier to handle if you shoot with a compact or always shoot on jpeg (and don’t feel like using raw) You can buy small light such as the Lowel Ego Lights, which are great to work with or any other kind of brand really. I have Interfit which I don’t know if that is English or Dutch, but regardless of which you use make sure they are daylight and not anything else.

Daylight lamp

Even with a daylight lamp you might still have to correct a little bit. Make it a habit to use your greycard as that can make a huge difference! Below the results with the daylight lamp. I had only one so can’t show you how it looks with two, but as you can see you don’t really need two to get good results. I have one in the studio and one that I use at home when I want to shoot something in the evening. As you can see the lights have a wider area making the lift softer then a pinpoint light such as the little halogen lights. But ultimately it depends on what kind of effect you want to achieve.

Because there was really little difference between before and after light correction for the daylight lamps I thought I show you one taken with the daylight lamp (on the left) and one taking with studioflash (on the right) Really not that big a difference. The shadows are a little softer but that’s about it.

On the left daylight lamp and the right studioflashes

As you can see it is very well possible to shoot at night with results that are as good as shooting in daylight and the good news is that you do not need very expensive equipment to do so. It does help if you own an SLR and get yourself familiair with shooting in raw and using a greycard or custom white balance, but even with a compact you can achieve good results or maybe I should say better results that shooting with flash. With any kind of light you have to pay attention to how the light falls on your subject and where it creates shadows. Daylight usually comes through a large window and is by that alone softer then articificial light but if you use that to your advantage there is no reason why you cannot take good photos in the evening.

Good luck and let me know if you have questions!

Foodphotography; controlling the light

Simone (junglefrog) — Thu, 07 Jan 2010 15:01:39 +0000

Egg sandwich with radish and rocket

I get questions on a regular basis on the specifics of how I take my photos and how I light the scene.. Today is a very cold day and not really suitable to go outdoors, so I figured I entertain myself (and hopefully you) by taking a couple of photos and showing you the difference from not changing any settings to changing settings, adding reflection and also taking the same photo with a different camera.

So to start off I am showing you my lovely lunch of a sandwich with rocket, radishes and a boiled egg and gardencress on top. Simple but very yummy and in the little red bowl you see a bit of yoghurt. I do show you a lot of lunches lately now don’t I? It must be the dark weather that causes that!!

All the photos I show you are taken with the exact same conditions; indoor, window on the left and daylight only. The first photo is a shot of my sandwich without any further adjustments.

1/160s at F4.0 iso 640

As you can clearly see, the photo is too dark and has ugly shadows in place I do not want to have shadows. When you’re shooting food your main goal is to make the food look appetizing, fresh and inviting; not drab and disgusting. For this exercise I shot most of the frames on aperture priority (Av on most cameras) although I normally shoot food in manual mode. I will explain more about the why a little later.

Now when shooting in Aperture priority I can easily adjust the exposure a little bit with the exposure valution button. That is usually shown somewhere on the back of the camera as a +/- sign or it can be hidden in the menu depending on your camera. What that does is that you can very easily increase the exposure or decrease the exposure as you go along. For the next photo I decided I wanted to make the exposure a little longer to add a little more light into the frame, so I increased the exposure by 2/3 stop. A stop is a change in a setting by one step, for instance your shutterspeed goes from 1/125s to 1/250s; that would be 1 stop. The little marks on your exposure valution are 1/3 of a stop. You can usually change up to two stops in total to the left or to the right.

1/125s at f4.0 with 2/3 EV

Now if you look at photo number two you will see that it does look a little better but could still be improved upon. I like the shimmer on the eggyolk but find the rest not to my liking yet. Now the light at the moment is quite dark and having light come from one direction only will most likely give you heavy shadows on the right side as you can see in both of the photos.

It’s extremely simple to solve this by simply adding a reflector on the opposite side of the light. In this case the reflector needs to be placed on the right side; bouncing light back from the window onto the food on the right side. This is how it looks with the reflector added. As a reflector you can – ofcourse – buy an expensive one but really anything will do. I mostly use white foamboard, but any white paper, a white shoebox or whatever else that reflects light would work and is much cheaper. If I want to have a little more punch I wrap a bit of tinfoil around the foamboard and use that. It reflects the light a little bit better then plain white and adds a little bit more contrast. You can use mirrors for lighting little specific spots or adding shine too.

1/200 s at f4.0 2/3 ev with reflector right

And for easy comparison all in a row from dark to light:

From left to right; no compensation, compensation 2/3 EV and compensation 2/3 plus reflector

As you can see; with very little adjustments it is actually quite easy to change the look of your photo from yuk to ‘can I have one of those?’

Now I got a question from one of my bloggie friends this week about the fact that her photos were not sharp. She send me a high res file that she made to check and it was in fact perfectly sharp but arguably not in the right position. If you do not focus manually (and if you work up close and on a tripod I would urge to try that as it is much easier to work with) you have to pick a focuspoint to work with. In my workshops most people own digital compacts and not SLR’s and most of them have their focus on automatic. But what happens is that your camera decides for you what needs to be sharp in the photo!! Not something you want, so the first thing you have to learn yourself is to either focus manually or use the middle focus point. The middle focus point is the strongest so that’s why that is the most logical choice.

So let’s assume you have your focus in the middle and you now take a photo and you get this:

Focuspoint in the middle.

I hope you can see it at this size, but I think it is quite noticeable that the egg in front is not sharp. Not sharp at all. But the middle of the sandwich is sharp. When you take a photo (any photo) you always have to ask yourself which point in the scene do you want to have sharp? Is it something in the foreground or something in the background or – even sometimes – something in the middle? Taking a photo of a person for instance, you would always focus on the eyes as those are the main feature of a human being. For food it’s a little more complicated. You have the pick something that make it pleasing on the eye and ‘leads’ your eye through the frame. In this particular case my natural focus point would be the front of the egg or the cress on top of the first egg slice. But if I focus there and press the shutter I get this:

Focus on the egg

Not what I want either, so how do you solve that? In order to focus on what you want AND get the composition you want you need to incorporate an extra step. You focus on your point, then keeping the shutter pressed halfway, you make the composition you want and then your press the shutter completely. Don’t release the shutter in between or it will refocus all over again. That might sound tedious (and gives you an extra argument to try manual focus!) but for me it has become second nature; I even accidently moved the frame a little bit on the photo above as pressing the shutter straight away is sort of become counter intuitive for me.

If you’ve recently upgraded from a compact you might struggle with the fact that you photo appears so much blurrier then with your compact. I took the same photo with my SLR (above) and then again with my compact (below) See the difference?

Taken with SLR on 1/60s at f4.5 (manual) iso 640

Taken on compact with 1/80s at f3.2 on iso 200

You see a big difference in the sharpness throughout the shot, don’t you? The compact appears sharper throughout the frame while the sharpness on the SLR ‘fades’ away as you get further from your focus point. Now I personally like a shallow depth of field in my photos, which is why I prefer the SLR above a compact, but if you’ve been wondering why your compact appears to be sharper, this is why… I won’t go into the techical details as to why that happens, let’s just say that it is due to the different way a compact is build…

So one more thing before I let you go… we just discussed your focuspoint and how you should focus and refocus, but… (and this is why I choose to shoot on manual most of the time) where you focus will also impact the settings on your camera in terms of lighting. If you focus on the front of the egg (white) the photo will be much darker, then if you would focus on the dark sandwich. I will show you the difference:

Focus on egg 1/100s at f4.0 EV 1.0

Focus on sandwich, left; 1/50s at f4.0 1.0EV

You see what happens? Your focuspoint not only determines where the image will be sharp but it will also determine how your lighting will be. So if you want to avoid this happening if you’re playing around with composition and the food, just dial in the number that you see on manual and you don’t have to worry about it anymore (unless the light itself changes!). There is nothing scary or difficult about using the manual settings; you can use your program settings as guideline if you want. Take a photo on automatic, check what the settings are, change to manual, dial those settings in and start tweaking them until you have the image and lighting that you want!

So I will leave you with all that…. good luck and if you have any questions always feel free to let me know!

Which camera?

Simone (junglefrog) — Sat, 12 Dec 2009 19:26:18 +0000

Canon Eos 5D mark II

A lot of people ask me what kind of camera they should be buying to take good foodphotos. While that might sound like a simple question, it is not! Ofcourse I can all tell you to buy the most expensive digital SLR but I am sure that is not the answer you’re looking for.. I am by no means an expert on the topic so I can only tell you my findings and opinion. Feel free to use it or not!

When writing this post I started out with explaining all the differences and then going into the technical details way too much; I mean if you’re not that into photography you might not know what aperture does or white balance so I was explaining it all, which lead to be a totally different post than the one I wanted to write! So starting all over; if you are looking for a new camera ask yourself first:

where are you going to use it for?
Do you mind carrying around heavy and clumsy cameras or are you more comfortable in having a pocketsized camera?
How technical do you want to get?
How serious are you about becoming a good photographer? Do you merely want to take nice photos for your blog or do you really want it to stand out from the average?
What is your budget? (a compact doesn’t necessarily have to be cheaper then an SLR, but keep in mind that you will need at least one lens to be able to operate the SLR)

There are many differences between an SLR and a compact camera but the main ones can be boiled down to the below list:

An SLR has a larger sensor than a compact camera resulting in sharper and better quality images; again; if you only use photos at websize for your blog this might not make a huge difference to you.
Possibility to change the aperture value and in general more options to change the settings on the camera. If you don’t want to do that stick to the compact. It would be a shame buying a SLR and then not using the possibilities. On the other hand; it will still give you superior quality results.
With an SLR you can achieve a shallower DOF (depth of field) then with a compact. If you like the effect of a blurry background then that is easier to achieve with a SLR then with a compact. This is due to the size of the sensor and the general build of a compact. (You can see the difference between both type of camera’s in the below photo. Both taken with an aperture of 2.8. Dramatic difference in the visibility of the background!!)

SLR vs compact

3. Noiselevels; current day SLR’s are better capable of handling low light level and high iso then a compact camera. Part of this is due to the race for more pixels. Nowadays it seems that everyone beliefs that more pixels equals better photos, but that – sadly – is not necessarily true. Sure if I need to shoot something for a billboard then I would need to have as any pixels as I can get, but if I am only going to use my camera for everyday usage why would you need 12 megapixel cameras? On compact cameras an overdose of pixels also creates more noise, especially visible when you shoot on high iso. But even on low iso, the noiselevels in a compact will be higher then on a SLR. The example below is not entirely fair since I took the shot from my compact without a tripod so it is a little bit more blurry then the SLR one, but you get the general feel of the smoothness (and colorhandling!!) of a SLR vs compact.

The one taken with the SLR is bright and clear, colors are accurate and overall the image looks very smooth. The one taken with my compact on the other hand looks a bit drab in regards to color and you can see that it is more noisy then the other one. The compact one would probably benefit from a little exposure adjustment.

In the end it is still true that a good photo is taken by the photographer and not by the camera, but having good tools does help you achieve the best results. A compact camera will work very well when shooting in bright and clear conditions. When we go on holiday I use it all the time as I don’t want to carry around my heavy SLR and if the weather is good and I do not have to use flash the results are brilliant as you can see from the examples below.

However; in lower light conditions or indoors, the SLR beats the compact every time. That can be partially solved by getting good lights to light your indoors scene or moving the dish outdoors to take advantage of the light if it is not at night…

There are many more arguments for buying either a SLR or a compact, but without getting too technical these are the main differences in my opinion. It’s up to you to make the final call!

Canon Powershot D10 (yes, it's an underwater camera too!!)

Junglefrog Cooking » Howto’s

Spiced nutty apple-pear cake

Apple pear and nut bundt cake

Ingredients

Directions

Related Posts:

How to… shoot a baby

Related Posts:

Foodphotography;shooting at night or in low light

Related Posts:

Foodphotography; controlling the light

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Which camera?

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